Thursday, August 20, 2015

Unplugging The Old Engine

<This post is part of the 'Engine Swap' project>
Now that the new engine is finally ready to go in the car, today's job is to get the old engine to the point where it's ready to be lifted out. In the recent post 'Stripping the Current, Soon To Be Old Engine', I've already removed the Heater Valve, Carburettor, Radiator, Alternator, Distributor, Coil and Earth Strap. Also the Temperature Sender and Oil Pressure Warning Sender were removed. Surely there can't be much more! Well it appears there is more, lots in fact...

I know that generally the summary appears at the end, but I thought I'd break with tradition and put it here instead as there are so many steps to go through to set the engine free, I thought it would be useful to have them all listed in one place.

Already disconnected:
  • Heater Valve
  • Carburettor
  • Radiator
  • Alternator
  • Distributor 
  • Coil.
  • Temperature Sender 
  • Oil Pressure Warning Sender
To do...
  • Top Engine Steady
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder
  • Exhaust Manifold
  • Lower Engine Steady
  • Engine Mounts
  • Speedo Cable
  • Petrol Pipe
  • Inner CV Joints (Pot Joints)
  • Exhaust Clamp
  • Gear Linkage
  • Starter Wires

Let's Go...
Top Engine Steady
The first and most obvious part to go for was the top engine steady. The engine side is mounted with just two bolts into the engine block. To be honest, if it were a quick engine swap, I could probably get away with just undoing them and swinging the steady round to the bulkhead.

As it's as rusty though, it will have to come out and be painted up. Can't have nasty looking things next to my nice new engine!! There is just one bolt holding it to to the bulkhead which is in a bit of a tight spot, but not too difficult to undo.

Clutch Slave Cylinder
This is mounted to the clutch housing with a bracket. There are two bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the housing, once undone the cylinder was free to be pulled off the clutch push rod.

I also removed the bracket as I want to paint it up for the new engine. I decided not to remove the clutch slave cylinder at this point as there was enough work to do without having to deal with the hydraulics also so I just tucked it away as best I could.

Exhaust Manifold
Next is the big old cast iron exhaust manifold that also doubles up as an intake. First job here was to lean the engine forward a little and undo the exhaust clamp. Taking it off is considerably easier that putting it on.

Not that it actually needed to be, but I decided to remove the manifold also.

I also decided to remove the head, which was probably not the best idea at this point, but we'll see.

Lower Engine Steady
This is much like the upper engine steady, one end bolts to the car (subframe in this case), the other to the engine. I detached the engine side only.

Engine Mounts
I simply undid the two bolts (per side) that attach the mount to the subframe. Once the nuts are off, the bolt can be just pushed up through the hole.

Speedo Cable
Now that the engine is loose and can be wobbled about, I could lean it forward enough to get my hand to the speedo cable. As this was replaced within the last couple of years, it was still finger tight and could be released with ease.

Petrol Pipe
Remove the pipe the comes from the tank in the boot, under the car and to the petrol pump. I stuck a plastic peg in the end of the pipe to stop the petrol getting out and any dust or general crud getting in.

Inner CV Joints (Pot Joints)
Phew, this is hard work, no worries though as I get to have a sit down now as most of the work left to do is under the car. Once the front of car was up on axle stands, I decided the simplest way to get the joints out was to undo the top ball joint on the hub and lift it out of the upper suspension arm.

After removing the brake callipers, and also the nut that secures the top ball joint, I realised that I needed to compress the suspension cones otherwise I would never be able to lift the top arm off the ball joint shaft.

So using my trusty old compression tool, which has server me well over the years, I compressed the cone...

...broke the taper between the ball joint shaft and the top arm.

...and bob's your uncle.

The hub is free to flop about.

Now I need to get under the car and snip the clip that holds the inner CV boot to the pot joint. Once it was snipped, it was possible to tilt the hub forward enough to pull the inner CV joint out of the pot. It was exactly the same for both sides.

Exhaust Clamp
Just where the exhaust bends to go under the car, there is a clamp that secures it to the diff housing. It's a simple nut and bolt job to release it. As the exhaust is going to be replaced, I undid all the clamps and wiggled it out from under the car.

Gear Linkage.
While scratting around under the car, I decided it was time now to work on the gear linkage. There are two parts. The first is the steady rod which is held in place with a nut and bolt to the diff housing.

The second part is the shaft that attaches to the selector. This had a pin that needed to be tapped out with a suitable drift. The problem is though, I don't possess a suitable drift!! What I do have however is a selection of old blunt drill bits, that do the job, just not quite as well. After a good wack with the hammer though, the pin finally started to give way and the selector was free!

Both parts were rested on some wooden blocks.

Starter Wires
The final job left to do is to remove the wires to the starter motor. I took a good few photos of this so I could remember what went where on the new engine.

And that is finally it. it took quite a bit longer than I thought, but certainly not an all day job. All that's left now is the simple job of lifting the engine out, which is easier said than done. But that's enough for today. I need a cup of tea and a sit down now.

Well I have to say that despite the amount of work needed to get the engine to the 'ready to lift' position, it was a very enjoyable few hours spent in the sun. Part of me can't actually believe what I'm doing as when I bought the car back in 2012, how it worked was a total mystery to me. For all I knew it was powered by witchcraft or magic or something and now here I am doing this, it's a very satisfying feeling.

If this is how I feel now, I think I may just explode when I fire up my new engine for the first time! Before that though, there is the small task of getting the old one out and the new one in.

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